If you thought moving to the African continent would mean the end of dealing with racism, white privilege and micro aggressions – wrong. Yes, the continent is a spectrum of endless browns and beiges, but its colonial descendants can make for a surprising “African experience”.
My experiences with racism in the States have generally been on the subtler side. In comparison, racism in Namibia has been shockingly blatant. There are a handful of towns in Namibia that I have no interest in ever visiting again because my experience has been what I imagine the Jim Crow south to have been like.
Take for example…
The Afrikaner “how dare you come in here and de-segregate” stare.
Namibia’s history of colonialism and apartheid has left behind some pretty racist individuals. Despite living on the African continent many Afrikaners are still convinced they are superior and would rather keep things segregated.
There have been countless times in which I’ve entered a Namibian restaurant that happened to have predominately white patrons. The situation is always the same. As the waiter escorts me to a table, Afrikaners literally turn around to get a good look at me. They don stares that silently say, you, Black girl – do not belong here. How do I deal? I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve actually gotten used to this. When I’m in the mood, I throw lengthy stares right back at them.
Earlier this year I was sitting in a fast food restaurant with my husband and 9 month old son. As I was playfully lifting my son and smiling at him I happened to notice a white man sitting several tables away literally snarling his face at me. Somehow the image of me showing my son affection had irritated him. After running through a list of possible things I could have done to irritate this man (had I been speaking too loudly?), it registered to me that he was just another plain ‘ole racist Afrikaner. I stared right back at him and mouthed something along the lines of, “what is this white man’s problem?”. I said that loud enough so he and the teenage boy with him could understand me. He in turn shook his head and rolled his eyes in further annoyance and I gave him a long stare back until he had to look away.
Shopping while black.
It took me a while to get used to being followed around in shops here. It’s sort of like an extreme version of how African Americans get profiled in beauty supply stores in the States. However in Namibia, security guards often make no secret that they are following you around. You can turn around and a guard is standing a few steps away looking you in your face. This used to really annoy me until it clicked that they were only doing what their managers insisted they do, or risk losing their very low paying job.
Still it is painfully obvious that white customers are not overtly followed around in this manner. Their shopping experiences are rarely infringed upon. They casually breeze through shops without a care in the world. I’m willing to bet most whites here are a lot less likely to have their bags checked as they exit a store as the rest of us are.
One day an African American friend and I stepped into a small bookstore in Namibia’s coastal town of Swakopmund. Upon entering we were immediately met with the icy stare of the white book-keeper. After we told her we didn’t need any assistance she just… awkwardly stood right next to us and stared at us as we paged through a few books. It was uncomfortable and I definitely couldn’t shop in peace. After a few minutes I was ready to leave. Our dollars were clearly too Black and I certainly wasn’t spending any.
When animal lives matter more than Black lives.
Last week my husband, son and I walked past a home with a menacing pit bull eyeing us up through a shoddy looking gate. I made a remark to my husband about how I don’t take any chances with pit bulls and quickly pushed our stroller far away from the gate.
A few days later on the national Namibian newscast I learned that this very same home had 3 pit bulls that had “accidentally” gotten out of their gate and viciously attacked a woman and a child as well as a security guard who came to their rescue. While badly injured the three Black victims survived.
What infuriated me the most was the white ASPCA woman, who, during the news story, defended the dogs. She had an attitude to boot. Her opinion was that the incident was just an accident and that the dogs were being unfairly profiled because they were of the pit bull breed.
I was disgusted.
Just this week I happened to catch another story out of South Africa. This one involved a baboon attacking two Black children. One of the children’s (age 6) wounds were so deep that his lung was visible to the naked eye.
Apparently the animal belonged to a white game farmer who purchased it to attract tourists. The Black residents were angry that the farmer hadn’t notified the community of the wild animal’s presence. The white farmer predictably and rather casually responded by saying he wasn’t to blame. It was almost as if he knew there would be no real repercussions. You can read the article here and check out the comments where people are again passing blame to these two children.
I think it’s pretty clear who is higher on the totem pole to many whites across Africa.
Whites who try to convince you that you’re not an African, or African enough.
Some of my oddest experiences have been with whites in Namibia who try to compete, challenge or lecture me on my Afrocentric identity. They may compare a struggle they’ve faced in an effort to trump anything I, the exponentially blessed African American female, could have ever faced. Someone may attempt to use my American upbringing to show me that I’m not a “real African” and nothing like Namibians.
This can also come from a racist Afrikaner who is trying to shake my confidence. I get the feeling that many Afrikaners view African Americans as “high and mighty” and that our self-esteem needs to be checked.
My self-esteem and identity require no outside validation and so, no. You don’t get to dilute the pride I have in my African lineage.
I remember the day an African American volunteer in Namibia called me incensed. She was in the midst of an argument with an older white receptionist over a medical bill. She told me that the woman went as far as to tell her something along the lines of “this is not America, this is Africa”.
Oh.
—
Disturbingly enough, some of the racist experiences I’ve had here have come from white Americans living in Namibia.
There was…
That time I found out that a few white American volunteers I oversaw referred to my natural hair as “freedom fighter hair”.
I initially moved to Namibia in 2010 as a teacher with a U.S. based teach abroad organization. After working as a teacher for nine months I was hired as the organization’s Namibia Country Director. One day I learned that three white American female volunteers I oversaw had “jokingly” referred to my natural hair as “freedom fighter hair”.
I was disturbed and appalled by the fact that these words could come out of the mouths of people who moved all the way to Namibia for the year to teach Namibian children with the same hair texture as mine. I shared the information with my boss in the States and suggested a stronger screening process for volunteers who wished to work with Namibian children. Upon confronting these three volunteers via email, the denials and the “I have many black friends back home”s predictably began rolling in.
While grateful for the opportunity, I knew then that overseeing white Americans in Namibia was far from my calling. I definitely did not move all the way to Africa for that.
When white Americans made condescending and ethnocentric statements against Namibians.
Simply put, there is a lot of arrogance that many white American volunteers bring with them to Africa.
The below is from a post I wrote about this in 2013. It also links to a second post on the same topic, written by another African American in Namibia.
Volunteering is definitely one way to move to Africa.
But what no one warns new African American volunteers about is the ignorant and offensive commentary they may be privy to hearing from the mouths of some fellow White volunteers during trainings, gatherings etc.
So you, the African American, find yourself in a very eerie space – in Africa, defending the continent and its culture, and/or isolating yourself (or being isolated/side-eyed after you oppose judgmental comments) from most of your fellow volunteers.
I cannot tell you how many black volunteers I’ve known to have experienced this…year after year, group after group.
Afr0p0litan, a good friend of mine, blogged about it here.
When it happens you’ll know, and at least you won’t feel weird when you’re not quite “clicking” with other volunteers.
And hey, you came here to experience Africa anyway right, so live it up the locals.
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Despite my experiences, Namibia is still a phenomenal place to visit or work abroad in. In the majority of the country, you will go for long stretches of time without seeing anyone white. These are the places that carry the best experiences. The areas still steeped in culture and tradition and off the tourist attraction list.
Some say Namibia’s environment of racism and socioeconomic inequalities is a ticking time bomb. I have often frustratingly wondered to myself, with such glaring racism, economic inequality and the tremendous leg up that whites in Namibia have in just about every sector, why isn’t there more black noise challenging all of this? I decided that it wasn’t my place to police how and when Namibians responded. For a nation a little over 20 years out of apartheid, most people are doing the best they can. Many are focused on surviving and thriving. While others do in fact challenge the bigotry here.
As I seek to understand why life in Namibia remains the way it is, I am reminded of a resilience, evocative of a people, my people, whose ancestors were captured and shipped oceans away. A mighty people who continue to persevere and shine in defiance of extraordinary tribulation.
Emile C. Smith says
Thanks for sharing this. We Africans (Blacks throughout the world) have to realize we are in global and eternal battle for the liberation of Black people.
Keith Allan says
I am not at all surprised to your experiences with the racism in Namibia.
Less than 24 hours into my first trip to Kenya getting ready to checkout of the Ambassadeur Hotel in the City Centre. My soon to be wife and I were having breakfast at the Hotel’s second floor level restaurant.
The restaurant used nice table cloths, and everything was neat and clean, but that is not my talking point. There sitting next to us was an white American woman and her two young daughters about ages 10 and 11.
We over heard her say something that will stick with me for the rest of my life and relay the experience to our children at an age they will be able to comprehend. She was holding and rubbing one of the folded tablecloths and speaking about it to both of her daughters.
She said, and I quote her: “This Restaurant Here, They Actually Clean Their Table Cloths!” unquote.
My wife paid no mind, she did not understand her comment. That her comment was directed toward black Kenyans in general. Insinuating they are not in the habit of cleaning within their OWN establishments.
The woman was very comfortable talking about it. It must have been that she knew Kenyans, most likely would not pick up on her comment as being racist. As she knows that if it were AAs, she would have thought twice in making such a comment.
I had to tell my soon to be wife what the woman meant by her comment, while it was still fresh in each others mind. She was shocked; to her knowledge, she never really had experienced racism directly from whites, that she was aware of that is. That was in 2006.
I witness Americans, Brits, Arabs, Asians, and other Europeans come to Kenya. Act as if they own and run the place. This is no accident, they feel as if they have more of a belonging in Kenya, it is do to their upbringing that they have the right to do what they want to and where they want to.
No surprise to me, your own experiences through your article there in Namibia whether it be from the locals or Americans, I see it playing out the same way in Kenya.
Moses says
Our people have been brainwashed to turn the other cheek. They tolerate racism because a European Jesus have been inculcated in every facet of their lives from birth through christianity. Most Liberians will not tolerate that in Liberia.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Yes, European introduced indoctrination through religion is a major issue across the continent.
Amon says
I made a white girl who “roomed with a black girl in college, and has a degree in black studies” cry. this fat, white trash devil acted like the “Massa’s wife” in Nigeria. She thought she could run that crap on me, in front of the natives. But she learned the hard way.
Kaylan (Admin) says
LOL, not Massa’s wife in Nigeria!
bronzevoices says
I have an experience similar to yours while playing with my son who was just learning to stand. I was playing with him and helping him to see outside the window. It made him giggle and me happy but when I looked up I saw a man staring at us as if he was about to throw up. I stared back obviously shocked until he looked away.What’s worst is he was an Indian man. For days I nagged my husband about whether I was doing something wrong but I knew exactly what it was. It saddened me for months after.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Wow, yes, I know exactly what you mean. experiencing things like this with your child makes it pretty infuriating. Thanks so much for sharing that.
Sinclair says
Zimbabwe is probably the least racist place I’ve been in Africa.
Kaylan (Admin) says
So I hear!
Raymond Dennis Baloyi says
In 2003 Zimbabwe, I saw an white person calmly packing supermarket shelves whilst the Africans were security personnel at the door, never seen such a thing in my native S Africa. Equality at its best.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Hi, thank you for the comment and yes, unfortunately the same disparities exist here in Namibia.
Jeanette Cross says
As a resident in Namibia for 25 years, this is not surprising but still so saddening. I am British and originally came to Namibia as an independent volunteer.
Over the years I witnessed so much racial prejudice and discrimination, both individual and systemic, that I came to see transformation as a very painful and long process.
I share your frustration that racist individuals and institutions are not called out more clearly, and I also appreciate the humility in your conclusion – a lesson for all of us.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Hi Jeanette, thank you so much for your comment and perspectives. It’s validating to hear it from another foreigner as well.
Oskar Heita says
I am sorry to hear about your experience in Namibia. I am Namibian and to tell you the truth, the Namibian situation is a ticking time bomb. We have so much inequalities, possibly more than anywhere else in the world. Right as i speak there is a land issue going on, how on earth a country of just 2.5 million people with an area of 825,615 km2 that is 318,696 sq m, not accommodate it’s people, and Namibia is the 34th biggest country in land. The answers simply is inequalities. You have mentioned about Swakopmund and I can say that it is a very racist place. A revolution is not far away, things are already not looking good.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Thank you for the reflection, Oskar! Appreciate your perspective.
Sinclair says
I will be in Windhoek on April 25. I’d like to discuss issues Sinclair.skinner@att.net
SilverD says
How sad and shameful. Even more shameful is that many have accepted the status quo.
Eric Madden says
This will be a challenge for me. I have no tolerance for it.
Kaylan (Admin) says
I understand.
Shunte A. says
My husband and I are wanting to move to Namibia to get away from the inequalities in the U.S. I am not looking forward to experiencing the same if not worst things from whites on a Black Continent.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Hi, thanks for reading! Namibia still has MUCH to offer regardless! It’s a fantastic place.
Andowa says
Racism is only a problem if you let it affect you . People! Live your lives, don’t let bullies get their way by repeatedly making them the topic of discussion.. With all this essay writing and pitty party throwing I feel like we expect some iron hand to fall from the sky and rectify things. That is not going to happen. It is what it is. This is the best we get. Let them stare, talk and die with their believes. How does that affect you???? Strive on your side and show them that you will get your destiny either way.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Where would Namibians, African Americans and the rest of the African diaspora be today if we had this passive mindset? For starters, Namibia would not even be independent. People’s livelihoods are affected by racism and systematic oppression. It needs to be discussed and dealt with.
Miki says
Im very sorry to hear of your experiences. As an immigrant (black Zimbabwean) who worked in Namibia for 2 years, I cam certainly agree with your sentiments about the levels of racism there. Especially in the small towns. Windhoek not so much as there is a growing middle class of young black professionals and they dont tolerate bull from Afrikaners and German Namibians. However in places like Swakop etc, that’s where you get all the shit surfacing. My own worst experience was in Walvis Bay. I was dating a mixed race Canadian and we went to a Supposed “nice” restraunt. One white lady, gave me the worst/most evil glaring prolonged stare i have ever recieved. I was shaken. Im sure if she could have skinned me alive, she would have. I have never experienced such a hate from someone i have no idea who they are and vice versa. Maybe in a past life i was her arch nemesis lol. Anyway, what hurt me the most was that, how dare this biatch be offended by my being present in MY own continent. If anyone had reason to be offended it would be I, as she is not even of African ancestry. In Zimbabwe i have to say, none of that shit happens. A little in the past, but because Blacks just wont take any bullshit from imperialists or racists.
Kaylan (Admin) says
Thank you so much for sharing that experience and yes, I know “the stare” all to well. People in denial will try to downplay it but it’s very real. I hope to visit Zimbabwe someday!
Monica says
Extremely disheartening:(
So…I’m planning on using Airbnb exclusively during my the time that I’ll be traveling East and Southern Africa. I’ve scoped out some great places, and I couldn’t help but notice the places that look the most familiar to what I’m used to are 8 times out of 10 owned by white people. Are they likely to even let a Black person rent out their home?
Kaylan (Admin) says
Well, while people have their isms when it comes down to it money and your passport can often make the difference. I would say to definitely give it a shot but consider hostels, hotels and guesthouses as a backup plan (hostel, lodge, hotel etc) in case you have any issues pre or post departure. There are whites here who are surprisingly cordial, so try not to write them all off. I think I read somewhere about the discrimination some black people feel they are facing while using Airbnb, so I guess you never really know. All the best in your upcoming travels! Sounds so awesome 🙂
maat433 says
Do these people realize they are on the African continent? I cannot imagine the insanity the creates that kind of arrogance & disconnect but I am determined to visit and experience life in Africa..so I guess I will just be putting a lot of people in their ‘place’. I don’t mind stare downs. lol..and I see Zimbabwe will be added to my must-visit list.
Kaylan (Admin) says
LOL at “I don’t mind stare downs”! <<< Love this! Thanks for reading!