Meet Ann, who’s currently living and working in Cape Verde.
Originally from New York, a vacation to west Africa turned into the move of a lifetime!
Where in Cape Verde do you live?
Praia city, Santiago Island.
When did you first visit the African continent and what were your first impressions?
I first visited Ghana I think in 2001, 2002. And I have to say it was a bit of a let down, maybe because I had extremely high hopes. I was in Accra, and I felt it was dirty, electricity was a problem, I saw people defecating on the street in the relative open, and at one small beach house I stayed in the staff actually dumped garbage into the ocean. I didn’t go on any of the tourist outings. I stayed in the city and lived there for about two months. I wanted to get a feel of the city rather than the attractions.
How long have you been living in Cape Verde and how long do you plan to stay there?
I have been here almost six years. I am not sure how much longer I’ll stay. I do need to spend a longer period of time with my family in the States soon. But even if I leave, I will find a way to come back regularly, especially since my husband’s family will be in CV.
How did you end up in Cape Verde?
I literally came for a vacation and wound up staying, in short.
What are you doing professionally in Cape Verde?
When I first got here it was still just freelance writing, then about three years ago I started teaching English to professionals with a company here started by an American man who came with Peace Corps, married a local woman and together they launched the professional English language teaching company. So now I teach English and write.
Would you say Cape Verde has a lot of entrepreneurial opportunities?
Oh wow. Many. Though it is a small market, the country is developing so rapidly and there is a need for many things.
Can you list some examples?
When I first got here I thought a laundromat would be great because many people still wash clothes by hand but electricity was super iffy and expensive. Now the electrical situation has greatly improved and actually a couple of people have opened up dry cleaners and there is one laundromat. Also needed are better forms of inter-island transportation with more private ferry services (there is only one right now). Clothes — there is a big market. Consumers here love brand names but most American clothing is brought second-hand. Cosmetics and beauty products are in high demand — especially from the States.
How easy is it for a foreigner to start up a business?
This is sticky because a lot of Cape Verdean Americans even complain that the process is hard and too long, though the government says they are working to streamline the process. For locals is it a bit easier.
Can you describe your experience immigration wise, of moving to Cape Verde?
It was a very easy process. There is no real waiting period.
Any advice for potential expats?
I would say test it out first. I have known a couple of other Americans who wanted to move but they failed to test the waters first and it didn’t work out. It was difficult to find jobs and there aren’t many conveniences (but that is changing). So I’d say try first to think about jobs. It’s tough for locals to get jobs, so imagine. Learn Portuguese (or the language of the country) if you want to do any consulting with the government — and this is an opportunity because the government here is always looking for outside consultants especially concerning sustainable development issues.
What industries are potentially hiring the most, if any?
Hospitality. There needs to be better training in this sector and Cabo Verde knows this and is looking towards ways to improve the sector. Also English language teaching.
What’s life like in Cape Verde for you?
One day is never the same, but at the same time it is very relaxing. The society here is very complex and I am always learning something new about the culture — even still. I love seeing the ocean every day. The weather is great — I am NOT a fan of cold weather. I have made many friends and there is always lots to do even though it is a small place.
Were you welcomed as an African American? Or as an American in general?
Yes, even though there are very, very few African Americans here. Probably less than 10 on this island. But there are more Americans. Here in Cabo Verde they really do like America and Americans — many of them have relatives in the States. In fact, America has more Cabo Verdeans living there than there Cabo Verdeans on all the islands. One downside, some think all Americans are rich — LOL.
What do you love the most about living in Cape Verde?
Being able to be outdoors a lot, the friendliness and courtesy of the people. And that I have a better life balance now.
Favorite memory so far?
Getting married.
Easiest things to adjust to?
The weather.
Most difficult things to adjust to?
Things move slowly here, that can be frustrating. And most things shut down during lunch, which is 2 ½-3 hrs long. This can mess up your day if you need to get paperwork or even something from a certain store and you have to wait until after lunch.
What is your social life like in Cape Verde?
During the end of my first year here I had made a few Cabo Verdean friends and I went out a lot (there is a big nightlife here)–to clubs, to festivals, to lots of restaurants. After I met my husband, I became more of a homebody.
Can you share a few details on the cost of living in your community?
I am currently living in an upper middle class zone (community). My rent is about 300USD, electricity about 60USD a month, groceries range depending what’s available. They have to import a lot of things as it is an island nation. But range of 100-200USD a month. Before getting married, I lived in a poorer community (which turned out to be more expensive in the long run–rent was about 250USD, electricity was higher–70USD–and groceries were higher as I tended to shop at a small convenience store since the grocery store was further away, and the convenience store was more expensive).
Do you think enough African Americans visit the continent?
I think many visit Ghana, Kenya, Namibia, and South Africa. But there are so many other countries to check out as well, especially Cape Verde. Cabo Verde was actually one of the most vital stops on the transatlantic slave trade route, a fact they are now trying to promote to encourage Black Americans to visit. It was the final stop before going to the Americas.
What would you say to encourage more of them to visit?
Most every American has an ancestral country they can go to–but African Americans get a whole continent! There is so much to explore. And spending time where people of color are the majority and the ones in control will give you a totally different feeling.
How long do you plan to stay in Cape Verde?
Indefinitely. I may come back to the U.S. to spend time with my family, but I would like to return to CV.
What has living in Cape Verde taught you?
So many things. It taught me patience. It taught me to pay more attention to others. It taught me to stop and enjoy life.
Or how has it changed you?
I don’t know if it changed me more as it has made me refocus my life.
Is there somewhere we can follow your experience?
An American in Cape Verde on Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/An-American-in-Cape-Verde-231196560340973/?fref=ts
Did you always dream of living abroad?
Not really, though I loved to travel.
Best advice for someone who wants to move to Africa?
Make sure you have a source of income, be prepared if you are heading to a developing country for certain hardships, remember there will be cultural differences, but most of all have an open mind–try to understand the ways of the location and respect the differences.
Thank you Ann! You’ve inspired us to see Cabo Verde! Anyone else living in Cape Verde or interesting in moving there?
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